Tuesday, June 30, 2009

When Making Changes to Cats' Litter Boxes...

Cats can be very particular with their litter box habits. Changing the type of litter or location of the litter box can sometimes trigger episodes of inappropriate urination or defecation --- translation: urinating or defecating outside the litter box.

Some cats will take to changes with no problems. Most, though, will not appreciate changes to their litter box, even if it means a better, prettier, easier-to-clean, litter box. A gradual change over is critical to avoid elimination issues.

Adding some of the current litter in with the new litter will help with the transition. For example, if changing from regular non-clumping clay litter to a plant fiber clumping litter (such as Arm & Hammer Essentials), place about 2 inches of the new litter in the box then add the current clay litter to the top 1/2 to 1 inch. Clean / Scoop the box at least once daily and add more of the new litter as needed. In a week, the box will contain mostly new clumping litter. Try to leave the litter box in the same location until the change is complete.

If you are changing the litter pan/box itself, such as switching over to an automatic litter box or upgrading to a larger box, place the new box next to the current one. Use the current type of litter in both litter boxes, if possible.

Stop cleaning the current (old) litter box. It will look unsightly but this is an important step in the transition. Just clean and maintain the new box. You can also remove some clean litter from the old box daily to make the box less inviting (most cats prefer a deep substrate to dig around). Your cat will start using the new box when the old one gets shallow and dirty. Remember to monitor to make sure he is urinating and defecating somewhere (hopefully in the new box). If your cat refuses to use the new box and stays away from the dirty old box, you may need to start over with a slower transition. Also look around to see if you can locate where he was eliminating in the house. If you know he is not urinating in either litter boxes and cannot tell if he is urinating somewhere in the house, contact your family veterinarian for advice. He is probably fine and is urinating somewhere, but best if you consult your veterinarian in case of problems.

A review of the different types of litter is in the works. After a brief initial research into the current "cat litter technology," I have to confess that it may take me a while to sift through the limited research and unlimited anectodes on the pros-and-cons of the available litter types for our feline companions. Nevertheless, silica gel litter, or crystals, intrigue me and will be first to be reviewed. I just introduced my cats to Fresh Step Crystals this week and will report back in a couple weeks.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Running with Your Dog: A Beginner's Guide

Are you looking to add some variation to your daily run? Do you like the idea of being a runner but lack the incentive and moral support to stick with the training? Your canine companion may prove to be just the running buddy you need.

Basics First
Let's face it. If you have not been walking your dog at all, don't think you can buy a collar and leash and start running with her tomorrow. Make sure your dog is at least leash trained before running with her. Struggling with a bucking dog at the end of a leash is not conducive to a good run.

Ideally, she is able to walk on a leash. Added bonus if you can teach her to heel. Start with 15 minute walks twice daily. Gradually increase the walks by 5 minutes every 3 days until you reach the desired time. Some dogs can probably do a 30 minute walk from the beginning. Increase the distance and time based on your dog's condition.

Then start adding in jogging intervals. Again, this will depend on your dog's (and your own) physical condition. A good place to start is to alternate 60 seconds of jogging and 90 seconds of walking for a total of 20 to 30 minutes. Increase the time of the jogging intervals every week. For instance, in the second week, jog for 90 seconds and walk for 90 seconds, and so on. You can model the program after the training programs for new runners. Runner's World and Cool Running both have basic training guide. Remember to start and end the run with an easy 5 minutes walk. Not only is it good for you but it will calm your dog, giving you a happy dog, not a hyper bundle of energy still excited from the run.

Safety Tips
- Before starting your dog on the jogging phases, have a general physical exam done by your family veterinarian. You may need to take certain precautions with certain breeds (i.e. brachycephalic breeds) or medical conditions.

- Watch for traffic. If you are running on the street, have your dog by your left side and run against the traffic (you should be between your dog and the oncoming cars).

- Run early in the morning or late evening. Dogs can't handle heat as well as we do. They can only pant and sweat through their pads; they can get overheated easily. As a side note, shaving a dog does not help keep her cooler.

- Run on an empty stomach (for your dog). Make sure she is calm and relaxed after the run before feeding. Avoid feeding her too soon after the run when she may also gulp down a large amount of water.

- On longer outings, bring enough water for you and your dog. Offer the water, she will drink it if she needs it. Do not force water down her mouth.

- Use reflective collars, leashes, or similar devices to ensure high visibility if you are out early in the morning or late in the evening.

- Keep your dog leashed.

- Harder surfaces such as asphalt and concrete can retain heat and burn pads; the roughness can lead to pad wear and injury. Products such as Pad Guard can help protect the pads. Check her paws after every run for injuries such as cuts and foreign bodies (burrs, gravels, foxtails) that may be stuck between her toes.

- If you often run on grass or dirt trails, keep your dog's nails well trimmed to avoid getting caught on roots, branches and vines.

- Signs that the run may be too much for her:
* falling behind you (instead of staying by your side or slightly ahead of you)
* panting excessively
* difficulty moving (sore) the next day
If she is otherwise fine, you may try going for shorter runs and increase the time and distance at a slower pace. Consult your family veterinarian if any concerns.

Avoidance is the best plan when it comes to overheated dogs. But, dogs can still get overheated running in the evening, especially on humid days. Signs of overheating that you may notice include:
- excessive panting
- white foaming around the mouth (salivation / drooling)
- unable to stand or uncontrollable movements (i.e. stumbling)
- gums are deep red
If you see signs of overheating, stop immediately and cool her down slowly with cool (not cold) or tepid water. Get her off the hot concrete or asphalt and onto the grass. In most cases, she should be fine in about 10 minutes (assuming you've been diligent and caught the warning signs early). If you are close to your car, drive her home. Otherwise, slowly walk home once she cool down.

Overheating can progress into heat stroke, requiring emergency treatment. If she does not show signs of improvement a few minutes into the cooling treatment --- for example, she continues to gasp for air and salivate excessively --- or if red blotches appear on her groin and chest, take her to a veterinarian.

In later articles, we will look at products designed to increase the fun and safety factor. But you don't need those products to get started. By following the above safety tips and precaution, you and your canine companion can start running together towards a healthier lifestyle.